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  But before I can set off, a massive snowstorm hits Kulusuk. We can’t go anywhere. The -kilometre-an-hour winds make a trip to the local shop a major expedition. ‘By the next morning, the storm has passed. ‘I meet up with my guide, local hunter Gio Utuaq. ‘His hunting grounds lie right at the edge of the sea ice. ‘I’m hitching a lift on the only form of transport that can get us there.’ She’s so keen! How far do we have to go to get to the hunting grounds? , maybe  kilometres. After two hours, we reach a huge expanse of sea ice. It’s impossible to comprehend that the snow we’re travelling across sits on ice, which sits on the ocean. We’re travelling across a frozen sea. And look at this! This is an iceberg actually trapped within the sea ice. It’s the most astonishing landscape, or seascape or ice-scape… What do you call it?! ..that I’ve ever seen! It’s like another world. And then, surprisingly quickly, the edge of the ice comes into view and I can see the Arctic Ocean. Gio tells me that only days ago, the ice extended out for several more kilometres, but it seems the storm has broken it up.


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